Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

[Michele]

Yes they go all the way to the bottom. Sorry about the photo of the trigger housing is crappy.

appreciate you sharing the pix of your work. We know yours it’s not finished. I was just joking with my remarks on the rat eaten photos I posted. That trigger housing area is a tough cookie, it’s pretty deep with little room for error. All builders should keep in mind slow and steady = First Time Quality.
I’m happy I have more than 1 frame. The 1st one is a tester, I plan to learn from my mistakes and make the next one much better.

So what bit/tool did you use in the Dremel ?

 

[Michele]

I'm telling ya...ya need to try the Dremel 650 router bit.
Amazon product ASIN B00004UDIL
View: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-650-8-Inch-Straight-Routing/dp/B00004UDIL

Yes I have that one. It will certainly work to get the bulk out. It’s pretty hard to see down in there. I’m using magnifying head set and still scared my frame up more than I’ll be happy with. I now know why MGB stated something like…doesn’t need to look pretty in his last video.

 

[Hawkeye]

I’ll update on this tool

RYOBI USB Lithium Power Carver Kit with 2.0 Ah USB Lithium Battery and Charging Cable FVH51K - The Home Depot

The RYOBI USB Lithium Power Carver is the industry's first cordless power carver. This carver allows for controlled carving with a 1mm stroke length and 14,000 SPM for all your project's needs. This tool

www.homedepot.com

Now this looks like it would work just fine for rough-out and the price is not all that bad. I would prefer it to be smaller, but I could live with it.

 

[AKfishwhisperer]

appreciate you sharing the pix of your work. We know yours it’s not finished. I was just joking with my remarks on the rat eaten photos I posted. That trigger housing area is a tough cookie, it’s pretty deep with little room for error. All builders should keep in mind slow and steady = First Time Quality.
I’m happy I have more than 1 frame. The 1st one is a tester, I plan to learn from my mistakes and make the next one much better.

So what bit/tool did you use in the Dremel ?

I was using a small ball burr. I don't know the Dremel bit number I have a bunch of after market Amazon bits.

 

[Hawkeye]

I'm telling ya...ya need to try the Dremel 650 router bit.
Amazon product ASIN B00004UDIL
View: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-650-8-Inch-Straight-Routing/dp/B00004UDIL

This should work too if you can just take a little off at a time.
The bit is a double fluted bit that should not load up and hang up turning at high RPMs.
Double fluted end mills are made for soft metals and should work for polymer. Just don't let it get to hot and start melting instead of cutting.

 

[no4mk1t]

This should work too if you can just take a little off at a time.
The bit is a double fluted bit that should not load up and hang up turning at high RPMs.
Double fluted end mills are made for soft metals and should work for polymer. Just don't let it get to hot and start melting instead of cutting.

Never had a melting problem. Best to secure the frame so you can use both hands for good control. Set the speed high so it doesn't chatter. Will buzz right thru polymer.

 

[One Ping Only]

Dang!! The new 76% units look like they have a storm drain in the trigger housing pocket. Kudos for y’all tackling this mess!

 

[Michele]

Here’s the next update. I’m waiting for the chisel battery to charge. So, I went with a different technique.
This worked very well and I am fully satisfied with the results.
Exato blade, cobbled up 90* & heat gun.

Heated flat chisel blade, cut down through the blocker but not flush with frame. Made a couple slower precise cuts to trim flush with frame. Bent a piece of stainless put an edge on it heated it cut the horizontal (bottom) flush with frame. Ultimate black shines it right up after a little polish with the greens.

I’m really liking this. I have full control of where the cut is.

Anyone know of a hot knife that’s adjustable. Low heat just enough to soften the polymer for the blade to cut is all that’s needed.

 

[USApat]

Here’s the next update. I’m waiting for the chisel battery to charge. So, I went with a different technique.
This worked very well and I am fully satisfied with the results.
Exato blade, cobbled up 90* & heat gun.
View attachment 9771

Heated flame chisel blade, cut down through the blocker but not flush with frame. Made a couple slower precise cuts to trim flush with frame. Bent a piece of stainless put an edge on it heated it cut the horizontal (bottom) flush with frame. Ultimate black shines it right up after a little polish with the greens.


I’m really liking this. I have full control of where the cut is.

Anyone know of a hot knife that’s adjustable. Low heat just enough to soften the polymer for the blade to cut is all that’s needed.

That looks pretty good. I would have thought it would have melted.

Just to clarify, you used the word "flame", but there's a heat gun in the photo too.
So am I correct in assuming you heated both of those Xacto chisels with an open "flame" and not the heat gun? Something like a candle, lighter or a match? If you did, how long did you heat it up?

I'm sure you've already thought about this, but perhaps that technique might work somewhat on the "obstructions" inside the slot for the front locking block legs. (See orange arrow below) The concern I might have would be the topmost edge of the thin "ridgeline" wall at the peak of the curved RSA support channel. It's thin on the topmost edge.

Do You think the heat of your blade would melt or deform that topmost ridgeline area?

I've noted the ridgeline I'm talking about in the smaller yellow arrow below. I'm just making some assumptions here and guessing. You have a better idea how well the hot slice technique works because you did it.

Thanks for posting up these photos!

 

[USApat]

That trigger housing area is a tough cookie, it’s pretty deep with little room for error. All builders should keep in mind slow and steady = First Time Quality.
I’m happy I have more than 1 frame. The 1st one is a tester, I plan to learn from my mistakes and make the next one much better.

Since there are machete and jack hammer marks perhaps this frame can be nicknamed the Slaughter Gun.

 

[Michele]

That looks pretty good. I would have thought it would have melted.

Heat is not so hot as to fully melt.

Just to clarify, you used the word "flame", but there's a heat gun in the photo too.
So am I correct in assuming you heated both of those Xacto chisels with an open "flame" and not the heat gun? Something like a candle, lighter or a match? If you did, how long did you heat it up?

Typo, fixed that heated flat chisel blade…. Just heated using heat gun. The blades are so thin they don’t stay hot long at all.

I'm sure you've already thought about this, but perhaps that technique might work somewhat on the "obstructions" inside the slot for the front locking block legs. (See orange arrow below) The concern I might have would be the topmost edge of the thin "ridgeline" wall at the peak of the curved RSA support channel. It's thin on the topmost edge.

Do You think the heat of your blade would melt or deform that topmost ridgeline area?

No I don’t think so. I’ll try it tomorrow. Can control where the blade is. If it starts to melt the thin area you pointed out. Can adjust so knife is not so close and finish to flush with Dremel green polishers, the pink hard grinders or diamond straights. All these tools are on MGBs tools listed w/ his videos; channel, pins and or polishing. That ridge is not affected by the block. It appears as though they only filled the pin hole. I believe @AKfishwhisperer said he was going to try drilling that area out. Curious if that’ll work. If it does that block won’t need any other work aside from fine tuning/cleaning up drill through debris.

I've noted the ridgeline I'm talking about in the smaller yellow arrow below. I'm just making some assumptions here and guessing. You have a better idea how well the hot slice technique works because you did it.

Thanks for posting up these photos!

I like this technique a lot. If I could have a hot knife with a exato knife blade that has controlled heat so it’s just warm enough to soften the polymer to easily slice it; that would work fine in all areas. Need to have small curved blade to get into tight areas that are horizontal and or curved. The cuts are warm enough to leave the polymer a bit shiney. It is melted slightly but not to the point of changing to liquid like state as when “welding” polymer together to correct pin hole mistakes.

 

[AKfishwhisperer]

Heat is not so hot as to fully melt.

Typo, fixed that heated flat chisel blade…. Just heated using heat gun. The blades are so thin they don’t stay hot long at all.


No I don’t think so. I’ll try it tomorrow. Can control where the blade is. If it starts to melt the thin area you pointed out. Can adjust so knife is not so close and finish to flush with Dremel green polishers, the pink hard grinders or diamond straights. All these tools are on MGBs tools listed w/ his videos; channel, pins and or polishing. That ridge is not affected by the block. It appears as though they only filled the pin hole. I believe @AKfishwhisperer said he was going to try drilling that area out. Curious if that’ll work. If it does that block won’t need any other work aside from fine tuning/cleaning up drill through debris.

I like this technique a lot. If I could have a hot knife with a exato knife blade that has controlled heat so it’s just warm enough to soften the polymer to easily slice it; that would work fine in all areas. Need to have small curved blade to get into tight areas that are horizontal and or curved. The cuts are warm enough to leave the polymer a bit shiney. It is melted slightly but not to the point of changing to liquid like state as when “welding” polymer together to correct pin hole mistakes.

I still need to modify an old frame to drill the front hole.

 

[Michele]

Ryobi Carver Tool $69 home depot- Or Amazon $77

Not too bad really. I was pleasantly surprised after using that china jack hammer. If you want to use this tool suggest getting at least 1 additional battery. This uses the small 2.0 lithium with usb charging. If you have other ryobi tools that take the old style small rechargeable batteries they will not fit in this tool.

The flat chisel that comes with the ryobi is too bulky to perform surgery on these frames. Amazon sells blades for these mini carvers. This one has a small flat that will work. They are not tooled well certainly not high carbon steel. Sharpen as needed or look around for a good quality blade around 1/8"-3/16" wide.


I used an exato blade. There's not enough meat on the blades for the collet to grab so I tossed in a shim.

Here's the tool doing its thing. Cuts nice. Its good to get right next to the frame nearly flush. Finish up with diamond straits, green polisher or fine emery.

In the locking block area this cut down that blocker quickly and straight down. Here's the problem... getting it off the shelf at 90*. This tool can only get in at an angle, note this in the vid. This is the reason I think a hot knife with a 90* or curved blade would be of value.

View: https://youtu.be/V6_GihJ-tQY

The Dremel may very well be the best tool to clean out the bulk of the trigger housing obstruction. I'm chicken to employ it any further than I already have. That pocket is pretty deep, small and nearly zero visibility down in there.

Back to using a hot knife...
I happen to have a stencil cutter. Older kit, probably not sold these days. Modded exato blade to fit. Nope, not hot enough.

I have one-a these on the way. If this hot knife works...this is going to be my goto tool. I'll return the ryobi chisel.


If not the next thing I'm trying is a blade on the rheostat operated solder iron.

Anyone building feel free to jump in here. I'm fully open to see more tools , more ideas, and your techniques.

Edit- neither of these worked out for me the way I wanted. Hot shaft easily damages the frame. Knife is not hot enough to cut quickly. The heat gun with hot xacto blade worked better for quick detailed removal with no damage to surrounding areas.

 

[Hawkeye]

Ryobi Carver Tool $69 home depot-
View attachment 9787
Not too bad really. I was pleasantly surprised after using that china jack hammer. If you want to use this tool suggest getting at least 1 additional battery. This uses the small 2.0 lithium with usb charging. If you have other ryobi tools that take the old style small rechargeable batteries they will not fit in this tool.
View attachment 9788

The flat chisel that comes with the ryobi is too bulky to perform surgery on these frames. Amazon sells blades for these mini carvers. This one has a small flat that will work. They are not tooled well certainly not high carbon steel. Sharpen as needed or look around for a good quality blade around 1/8"-3/16" wide.
View attachment 9789

I used an exato blade. There's not enough meat on the blades for the collet to grab so I tossed in a shim.
View attachment 9790

Here's the tool doing its thing. Cuts nice. Its good to get right next to the frame nearly flush. Finish up with diamond straits, green polisher or fine emery.

In the locking block area this cut down that blocker quickly and straight down. Here's the problem... getting it off the shelf at 90*. This tool can only get in at an angle, note this in the vid. This is the reason I think a hot knife with a 90* or curved blade would be of value.

View: https://youtu.be/V6_GihJ-tQY

The Dremel may very well be the best tool to clean out the bulk of the trigger housing obstruction. I'm chicken to employ it any further than I already have. That pocket is pretty deep, small and nearly zero visibility down in there.

Back to using a hot knife...
I happen to have a stencil cutter. Older kit, probably not sold these days. Modded exato blade to fit. Nope, not hot enough.
View attachment 9791

I have one-a these on the way. If this hot knife works...this is going to be my goto tool. I'll return the ryobi chisel.
View attachment 9792

If not the next thing I'm trying is a blade on the rheostat operated solder iron.

Anyone building feel free to jump in here. I'm fully open to see more tools , more ideas, and your techniques.

After seeing how the chisel worked, I think could do better with a carbide ball burr.
I think you are on to a better way with a hot exato blade.

I thought about a blade for my stippling iron and found this.
www.amazon.com/Hot-Knife-Point-Replacement-Points/dp/B000VRRBU4/?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=pd_wlh&pd_rd_w=1THL6&content-id=amzn1.sym.3aaa24ab-eb65-4c9f-b64b-a539fc469ffc&pf_rd_p=3aaa24ab-eb65-4c9f-b64b-a539fc469ffc&pf_rd_r=V9VYFWPDH8CHV4Q6BBWY&pd_rd_wg=xHo1G&pd_rd_r=335f197c-bb38-4ee3-89f7-fad78209702a

next amazon order, I'll get some.

 

[Michele]

I thought about a blade for my stippling iron

How many watts is your iron ?

 

[GSW10]

Ryobi Carver Tool $69 home depot-
View attachment 9787
Not too bad really. I was pleasantly surprised after using that china jack hammer. If you want to use this tool suggest getting at least 1 additional battery. This uses the small 2.0 lithium with usb charging. If you have other ryobi tools that take the old style small rechargeable batteries they will not fit in this tool.
View attachment 9788

The flat chisel that comes with the ryobi is too bulky to perform surgery on these frames. Amazon sells blades for these mini carvers. This one has a small flat that will work. They are not tooled well certainly not high carbon steel. Sharpen as needed or look around for a good quality blade around 1/8"-3/16" wide.
View attachment 9789

I used an exato blade. There's not enough meat on the blades for the collet to grab so I tossed in a shim.
View attachment 9790

Here's the tool doing its thing. Cuts nice. Its good to get right next to the frame nearly flush. Finish up with diamond straits, green polisher or fine emery.

In the locking block area this cut down that blocker quickly and straight down. Here's the problem... getting it off the shelf at 90*. This tool can only get in at an angle, note this in the vid. This is the reason I think a hot knife with a 90* or curved blade would be of value.

View: https://youtu.be/V6_GihJ-tQY

The Dremel may very well be the best tool to clean out the bulk of the trigger housing obstruction. I'm chicken to employ it any further than I already have. That pocket is pretty deep, small and nearly zero visibility down in there.

Back to using a hot knife...
I happen to have a stencil cutter. Older kit, probably not sold these days. Modded exato blade to fit. Nope, not hot enough.
View attachment 9791

I have one-a these on the way. If this hot knife works...this is going to be my goto tool. I'll return the ryobi chisel.
View attachment 9792

If not the next thing I'm trying is a blade on the rheostat operated solder iron.

Anyone building feel free to jump in here. I'm fully open to see more tools , more ideas, and your techniques.

...So, instead of a jack-hammer, you got a farting balloon?

balloon farting noise - Google Search

Actually, I like the X-Acto-blade mod there with that Ryobi, from here that looks pretty effective. I would think that could get the bulk of the obstructions out of the way (the polymer ones in the 'blanks;, NOT the bureaucratic ones who show up to shoot gun-owners' dogs), and the micro-sander could be employed to finish it down to the surface-level, or just another X-Acto chisel-bit used by hand, or a machinist's scraper? What about some self-adhesive sand-paper stuck to the back of one of those blades, and use the Ryobi as a linear-action sander for the really tight spots?

 

[Michele]

. the micro-sander could be employed to finish it down to the surface-level,

Yep got that knock off it’ll work like a charm. Might modify one two of the sanding tools to fit this situation. Being plastic simply heat and bend…or maybe 3D print what I want.

or just another X-Acto chisel-bit used by hand, or a machinist's scraper?

Yes, machinists scraper or wood finishing scraper may work fine to smooth everything out

What about some self-adhesive sand-paper stuck to the back of one of those blades, and use the Ryobi as a linear-action sander for the really tight spots?

Like this idea too. Thanks for the great ideas.

 

[Hawkeye]

How many watts is your iron ?

25w

 

[Steelart99]

FWIW, there are all kinds of variable temperature wood burning tools that will generate a range of temperatures. These are up to 60 watt tools rather than the 25 watts noted above. Most of the complaints are that the handles get too hot; gloves are provided with these ... but ...

I would think that some of the techniques used by Michele at somewhat higher temps and maybe chisel tips might work well. Custom tips are not all that hard to create either ... again, as Michele has shown us.

Example (I don't own one of these):

The links aren't showing up, so here it is:
www .amazon.com/gp/product/B08T76887J/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AXCLP1WRBUJG0&psc=1
remove the spaces after www


Amazon product ASIN B08T76887J
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T76887J/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AXCLP1WRBUJG0&psc=1
Amazon product ASIN B0B1YLCGWN
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1YLCGWN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A19PETWFKV0O06&psc=1

 

[Michele]

Update:
Here’s where I am so far. This frame is so beat up, it’s surely not FTQ. I suggest protecting areas to avoid melting them or getting Dremel wear marks. I’m really not sure how I am going to get down into that trigger housing without damaging the frame worse than it already is.

Front locking block obstructions were not difficult to remove at all. The back leg area- used the ryobi chisel to cut straight down then cut off from the horizontal platform with my diy 90* hot knife.

Front leg area of the locking block I used the ryobi chisel and Dremel diamond straits to clean it out.

The locking block fits so far, real test will be after I remove the tabs.

Now for the hardest part. Lower section of the trigger housing. I have not come up with a method or technique for this area. It would have been nice if only the upper area had the waffle fins. They go all the way down to the ridge the rail sets on. I currently don’t see anyway to save that platform. This frame is already too far gone to even attempt it.
These are the issues:
1) Very little room. Dremel doesn’t fit down in there without damaging the surrounding areas. I went down as far as I dare with tool extended out all the way. Hot knife damages surrounding area…no room to move.

2) Can’t see down in there. Tools take up all the space, no light or room to see what’s happening in there.

Tools used left to right: Drill master and pink grinding bits from harbor freight, x-acto knife, stipple iron 60W turned up to max temp, hot knife 30W turned up to max, ryobi chisel.

Dremel bits used.

EDIT- I used my M.Mark knock off sander to smooth out the trigger housing. Modded the tool cutting the edge so it would fit in the area.

This frame is definitely a challenge. Getting FTQ in the trigger housing area not so easy. I have definitely learned from the mistakes I’ve made. The hot knife is nice it works pretty well. Need the 90* to get a nice looking shelf for the locking block to set on. I also like the electric chisel it cuts fairly quickly in straight lines. I will use both tools on my next frame.

Anyone have ideas to get down into the trigger housing ?