Two words: Slam fire.
When you "go hot" for the first time with your build, PLEASE load ONE round. ONE! And, when you chamber that round, MUZZLE DOWN RANGE. And make sure you have a GOOD GRIP.
If for some reason the striker is protruding through the breach face, you could have a "slam fire." That means when the slide goes into battery, the striker sets off the primer, igniting / firing the cartridge.
This is also why we NEVER function test our builds with live ammo. SNAP CAPS ONLY...
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So yeah, fret cutters if you have them. But what if you don't, and you only want to build one or two and are a cheap bastard like me. Well, if you own a Dremel, the answer will only cost you about $6.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-650-8-Inch-Straight-Routing/dp/B00004UDIL
Been using this bit to bevel the forend on M1's for years. Turns out, it does a nice job on the P80 tabs too.
Set the speed fairly high to prevent chatter. Buzz off 90% of the tab, and then slow down and get deliberate...
I thought I posted a dedicated thread for this, but apparently not. So here we go. If I'm missing some shots that would be helpful, let me know.
Here are some example photos for those builders who are looking for help diagnosing problems.
Make sure you have good / bright lighting and that the photos are sharply focused.
Field Stripped:
Channel and rail shots!
Assembled:
Sear Engagement with Armorer's Slide Backplate
Comparison between aftermarket (Polymer80) and OEM (Glock)...
Thanks to @Michele for putting this together!
All 24 of Marine Gun Builder's videos in order of Build Sequence. So good, they were banned by YouTube! Plus added bonus, Cory's channel method, at the Resource Center. <--- CLICK!
(You'll need to register as a member to view this resource.)
These are externally-hosted Google Share files for all registered members to enjoy.