I'd love to hear reasons! I'm not very creative with names. BTW, the Boss already named this one but you are welcome to take a crack at it:
I have an idea for a name. But it's a bit beyond "R-rated!" It rhymes with "long!" LOL!
I'd love to hear reasons! I'm not very creative with names. BTW, the Boss already named this one but you are welcome to take a crack at it:
It seems like Shapeways is defunct.I last used them a couple of years ago.
I can spare a G29/30 Gee Plate for the cause. It would be awesome if you could get someone to produce them again! Maybe even out of aluminum? And while I am wishing, it would be nice if the 2.0 version were more rounded and less pointy for a little more support. I don't know why the original producer made them pointy. The M&P subcompact magazine with a full size baseplate is where I first experienced how much additional control it gives to have that ledge. Make GP 2.0 rounded like the M&P, but long, like the Gee Plate.
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I'm too lazy to switch baseplates. My pinky doesnt care.. I don't add extensions that provide an extra round or two. Although I have a few of those. In most cases, they came with the gun. Most gun-related incidents are over in less than one minute, conducted at a distance of 5-7 yards, with an average three shots fired.
I have added extra heavy metal baseplates to mags used in matches. They drop easier and faster. I'd never use them on a carry gun.
When I feel the need to get a better purchase on a handgun, I switch guns. I have average sized hands and own a few small, pocket guns. Some 9mm but most 380's. I don't care so much about trying to lengthen the tiny grips because these pistols are designed to be used up close and personal.
That's what I've always said. The *only* gun I've ever settled on a +2 baseplate for was my little PeaGlock 42. In that one and only instance, it makes sense.As it pertains to concealability, it's the grip that "prints" the most. At least when it's carried on the hip. So, if I'm going to extend the grip, I might as well just carry a bigger gun.
That's what I've always said. The *only* gun I've ever settled on a +2 baseplate for was my little PeaGlock 42. In that one and only instance, it makes sense.
As for the GeePlates Alex and I are talking about, that's whole 'nother animal. I literally couldn't shoot my subcompact 10mm without it, and I shoot my 40 and 9 worlds better with it. I have occupational nerve damage in my hands, so I need all the help I can get! And the GPs don't increase printing any.
+1 for the bonus hack I never even thought of!I didn't find it to make a difference in my grip or shooting the G27. But I kept it on my spare mag, because it did make that easier to draw.
If you see no improvement with Gee Plates, see a doctor. You may need a bigger gun.
I have 2 Beretta Minxs, both 950BS models (so post '68 w/frame safety) a nickel and a blued, the blued has the longer barrel, I love them both, but I didn't fully appreciate how beautifully hand crafted they were until I bought a couple of new aftermarket magazines for them. Comparing the new mags to the single Italian mag that came with each, really revealed the difference in hand fitting. I had to do 45 mins of hand filing on the feed lips of both of the new mags to get them to fit and function, as well as some pliers pinching and belt sanding to the sidewalls to get them to drop free. And each gun had a slightly different fit to its mag. But the original Italian mags that came with each fit its respective gun to satisfying click perfection.In days of old when knights were bold, small Beretta pistolas shipped with a flippity-do on one mag along with a flush mag. I have a number of these in the 'never shoot em' section of my collection. Most are 25 auto or 32, a couple 380s. Very well made guns from another era.
Someone may have already taken the name, but “Biggus Dickus” comes to mind.I have an idea for a name. But it's a bit beyond "R-rated!" It rhymes with "long!" LOL!
I used the p80 bits in a pin vice to finish the holes. Don’t need any pressure just turn the vice slowly and let the bit do the work.After doing the front hole with the 2.8, I assume use the 3.2 bradpoint to open it up? or default p80 bit?
Figured I'd see what the best recommendation was.
There is a tad bit in the center still too, that I assume will just dig out when you ream it?I used the p80 bits in a pin vice to finish the holes. Don’t need any pressure just turn the vice slowly and let the bit do the work.
Sorry, don’t quite follow. “tad bit in the center”. ? The supplied bits are 3mm and 4mm. I haven’t done a 76 frame yet so not exactly sure the size of the “front” hole is, I kinda think it’s 3mm on the full and compact. Maybe someone else can advise on that one, don’t want to mislead you.There is a tad bit in the center still too, that I assume will just dig out when you ream it?