Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

[Harold]

Of course, we can do anything we want on this forum. And those experienced builders here who have fiddled with the 76% frames have shared as they are learning themselves.

As I read the ATF letter, we can do anything we want as long as we don't at some point devise and promulgate anything that our fickle "masters" might construe as making the polymer blanks "readily" converted into frames.

 

[Stephen G]

Probably piss someone off but
ROFLMAO damnit man @ some of the comments.
I think what has been done in 80% world is nothing short of OUTSTANDING. Including the mistakes. The level of precision and refinement in these frames is absolutely remarkable. The cost & ease of completion is almost criminal . Some of the innovation come from places like this.
When "WE" devil into this, WE are building a firearm. Nothing short of it.
THATS THE GAME, THE PURPOSE OF IT. Also the purpose of this forum and others.
We as novice need to educate ourselves as to process of building a firearm PRIOR TOO cranking up the dremel.
Thats the program- we do what we do to further the hobby and it benefits the industry.
30+ yrs ago we were doing this FALs and AKs. Thats where AK blanks and allll those nifty tools came from. And we figured out how to make a side folding inch pattern FAL and that cast aluminum for a 762x51 was a bad idea.

Same process is happening with 80% polymer frames and other stuff. This exploded overnight. Mind blown at how much has been accomplished in such a short time.
Building is inherently dangerous, anything. Building firearms isnt a exception.we need to take responsibility for what we are doing. Education is a great start, if we make a mistake that jeopardizes the integrity of the plank. Thats on you. Learn from it and move on. Share your experience with others and others will do the same. But a mistake is a mistake. Shoty workmanship on our part doesnt equal crappy parts to start with.
Thats why I do what I do. If ya want easy---err. Get a completed firearm made by a professional.

 

[Racer88]

As I read the ATF letter, we can do anything we want as long as we don't at some point devise and promulgate anything that our fickle "masters" might construe as making the polymer blanks "readily" converted into frames.

Umm.... what? We ARE converting blanks into firearms. Perfectly legal for the entirety of the life of this nation.

 

[Harold]

Umm.... what? We ARE converting blanks into firearms. Perfectly legal for the entirety of the life of this nation.

My point escaped you. If I understand the ATF's position on the matter (as per the letter), they are asserting that they are free to decide (at their whim), that some particular blank may be too "readily" made into a frame. It follows that if "we" for example or someone else were to come up with some method to easily remove the webbing from the trigger housing pocket, that we will go through this legal brouhaha again.

 

[Harold]

As I see it, they're playing the same old game of gun-control-whac-a-mole harassment that's been going on for years. What's happening now with "80%" polymer frames reminds me of what happened in the 80s with the open-bolt-firing Ingram M-10 pistols and carbines, the silencer parts, the AR-15 auto sears, etc., and then what happened 10 years ago or so with the AR-15 80% "build parties" and all the made-up-as-we-go-along rules about people helping other people to complete 80% receivers and using someone else's machine tools, etc. It was and continues to be laughably absurd. And the ironic thing is that they brought it all on themselves.

 

[Racer88]

My point escaped you. If I understand the ATF's position on the matter (as per the letter), they are asserting that they are free to decide (at their whim), that some particular blank may be too "readily" made into a frame. It follows that if "we" for example or someone else were to come up with some method to easily remove the webbing from the trigger housing pocket, that we will go through this legal brouhaha again.

Ah! I see. In other words, if we "decode" the trigger housing obstruction and make it "too easy," then it will get their attention again.

Hopefully it didn't escape me this time! Haha!

 

[MrMayan]

What tool(s) did you use to remove the obstructions

Update on my progress
Ok the china junk has shown it’s colors. The key that operates the mechanical parts turning them is nearly worn to nothing after about 20 minutes of jack hammering the fins. It quit on me. So… that’s a definite no go. That cheapo $20 tool is on its way back. Can’t expect much for $20 I guess. However, I’m not giving up on this technique. What little bit I have done I’m fairly happy with.
View attachment 9768
This is a work in progress…it’s still pretty rough looking & can all be polished up. (NOTE: don’t go running over to Reddit to post my unfinished rat eaten work. You know who you cross poster are ) The flat carver did a pretty good job of removing the fins flush at the areas identified by the arrows. The tool heats up a tad due to friction So polymer is easily shaved. This pocket is small with the front wall angled, it’s pretty thin and easily damaged if not cautious.

Think I’ll use the MGBs recommended cutters to get most of the rest of the meat out. Then try out my new Ryobi carving tool(amazon link) I just got at Home Depot. I’ll update on this tool

RYOBI USB Lithium Power Carver Kit with 2.0 Ah USB Lithium Battery and Charging Cable FVH51K - The Home Depot

The RYOBI USB Lithium Power Carver is the industry's first cordless power carver. This carver allows for controlled carving with a 1mm stroke length and 14,000 SPM for all your project's needs. This tool

www.homedepot.com

Did you have any luck with the ryobi?

 

[Bongo Lewi]

Did you have any luck with the ryobi?

The Ryobi Carver was somewhat effective, but only after I spent a couple of hours sharpening the chisel blade. It requires a bit more eye/hand coordination than the complimentary Ryobi Rotary Tool, which uses the same batteries.

The Ryobi Rotary tool was overall the most controllable and efficient tool I tried. Cutting as much as possible with nippers then finishing with the Ryobi Rotary seemed to be the right combination. The Ryobi makes quick work of nicely removing the 'tabs' on the 80% frames, so even though I will definitely not do another 76'er, the Ryobi tools were not a waste of money.

I ended up using both the Ryobi tools. The sharpened chisel was especially good for removing what the rotary tool left behind. Making the surface a bit smoother. As I have mentioned in other posts the time and effort involved with preparing the 76% frames was not worth it to me. The net result - a completed frame - just isn't up to my standards.

My only beef with either of the Ryobi tools is the battery life, but I bought extras. The chuck is a little flaky... cheaply made, but not much different from a Dremel. Both are pretty useful tools to have around.

 

[Michele]

Did you have any luck with the ryobi?

Yes sir. It was very effective in making vertical cuts. Did not use blades it came with, too big, use xacto chisel blade. Nice smooth cut. Used it along with diy hot knife for front block came out FTQ.

Start at pg 2 on this post for info on build 1—-it’s this thread.

Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

Yes they go all the way to the bottom. Sorry about the photo of the trigger housing is crappy. appreciate you sharing the pix of your work. We know yours it’s not finished. I was just joking with my remarks on the rat eaten photos I posted. That trigger housing area is a tough cookie, it’s...

www.patriotgunbuilders.com

Build 2 with info here

Building new bridge frame #2

Took me 4 hours to get this far. Better than the 1st one, but still made a few mistakes on protecting the frame from damage. The easiest part of this pocket is done. Used the rayley type snips to cut most of the center part of grid away. Then ryobi chisel with xacto blade to shave down into...

www.patriotgunbuilders.com

I really wasn’t pleased with the rear rail area of either. However, the rail fits as it should although it’s not pretty.
Here’s my second frame. Came out better but not what I’d call FTQ

Building new bridge frame #2

Took me 4 hours to get this far. Better than the 1st one, but still made a few mistakes on protecting the frame from damage. The easiest part of this pocket is done. Used the rayley type snips to cut most of the center part of grid away. Then ryobi chisel with xacto blade to shave down into...

www.patriotgunbuilders.com

 

[upthecreeker]

I might as well jump in here with my unsolicited opinion on the matter.

I appreciate that the Polymer 80 company has done a great service to the 2nd amendment and the people of the U.S. with their pioneering effort to make incomplete-and-therefore-not-subject-to-federal-regulation Glock-like polymer pistol frames.

That said, I believe that Polymer 80 is nevertheless open to some legitimate criticism for some of their business practices. I understand that they are in business to make money and I don't have a problem with that, but only within reason. As I see it, some of their earlier frames and parts - starting with the first "80%" polymer pistol frame - had issues that should've been corrected before mass production and sales, IMO. Their attitude (from the beginning) seems to be "well we know the products have some issues but we'll let our intelligent and industrious customers figure it out" or something like that.

Anyway, I didn't buy one of the new frames (yet at least) but as I see it, Polymer 80 has a duty to give prospective customers some kind of an idea as to the effort/skills/tools required to complete one of these frames. Maybe I missed it (and if I did I take some of what I'm saying back), but I glanced at their web site and the web site of Delta Team Tactical and I didn't see any information to that effect at all; no instructions or anything regarding the level of difficulty involved or special tools needed or recommended to complete the new frames.

If I was the CEO of Polymer 80, I would task someone (in house or an outside engineering consultant) with coming up with a few ideas on removing the webbing from the fire control pocket before offering it for sale to general public.

I contacted Polymer 80 customer service and they say that according to the ruling they could not include instructions on finishing the new bridge frame. They referred me to this forum and I have found it very helpful. I haven't made it through all the posts but they are currently offering to replace bridge frames with the previous version for a small charge and for a limited time. This is because an injunction has given them the ability to sell the old frames and jigs again for now. I just want to give this frame a go to see what I can do with it. I like a challenge.

 

[Racer88]

I contacted Polymer 80 customer service and they say that according to the ruling they could not include instructions on finishing the new bridge frame.

Fortunately, we happen to have all those original instructions here (in our Resource Center):
Polymer80 PF940 (80% Pistol) Series Frame Finishing Instructions

Oh... The bridge frame is another matter. No "original" instructions for finishing the additional obstructions.

But we've got this:

Building the new Bridge (76%) frame ?

I'm still awaiting my new tools. Fully excited to get going on this project to tackle this new challenge. I plan to share my experiences here. So far this is my plan. Tools: 1) I'll be using the standard tools recommended in the MGB videos to complete the frame. Click on more under the video...

www.patriotgunbuilders.com

And this:

Question - New p80 frame tool ideas?

While we all wait for the new frames to ship…. Been thinking about tools and methods to use on the new p80 frames. There was a hot wire cutter method mentioned on another post. Looking for other ideas from the community. What do you think ? I’m thinking a micro oscillating tool may be a good...

www.patriotgunbuilders.com

 

[Michele]

@upthecreeker
Also, I believe MGB’s Freedom Crew U is offering a course of the 76%. You can contact MGB and ask if that course available.

Gunsmith School | Freedom Crew University

America's #1 Firearm Training School

www.freedomcrewuniversity.com

I agree, it’s a cool challenge. I enjoyed tackling it. Was fun. Use caution on that magwell wall, it’s thin and very easy to punch through if tools aren’t angled correctly. I think that was the most common error made by builders aside from frame damage due to inadequate protection from tool marks.

Edit-oh ! Welcome to the community sir !

 

[Harold]

I contacted Polymer 80 customer service and they say that according to the ruling they could not include instructions on finishing the new bridge frame.

Luckily it now seems to be a moot point and hopefully it'll stay that way but just to keep the record straight, AFAIK there was no statement in the ATF letter specifically telling Polymer 80 et al. that "you cannot provide any instructions with your frames." Rather (as I recall) the gist of the letter was that in making determinations the ATF would be looking at the availability of jigs, tools, instructions, etc. - anything and everything that would allow the frames to be too readily made into firearms (in their highfalutin opinion). So apparently Polymer 80 was not going to take any chances.

They referred me to this forum and I have found it very helpful. I haven't made it through all the posts but they are currently offering to replace bridge frames with the previous version for a small charge and for a limited time. This is because an injunction has given them the ability to sell the old frames and jigs again for now. I just want to give this frame a go to see what I can do with it. I like a challenge.

That's nice of them to do that and I would recommend that you take advantage of their generous offer and get one of the original frames.

 

[Goodheadache]

I recommend that you cut the bridging along the magazine wall first before you try and clip any material away with nippers

First time posting and recently new member… I second this^^^^ after cutting thru the mag well wall on my first attempt I used a coping saw to cut out the middle sections of the polymer. It was hard to get the saw blade down thru. Had to actually remove the tab the holds the saw blade In place then re attach it. Definitely recommend putting tape or something down, it helps to let you know when you are tearing up the walls. I still have to go in with the dremel and flatten sand everything out. But off to a better start compared to the first time. (Frame with the tape is my second attempt,obviously)

 

[Racer88]

First time posting and recently new member… I second this^^^^ after cutting thru the mag well wall on my first attempt I used a coping saw to cut out the middle sections of the polymer. It was hard to get the saw blade down thru. Had to actually remove the tab the holds the saw blade In place then re attach it. Definitely recommend putting tape or something down, it helps to let you know when you are tearing up the walls. I still have to go in with the dremel and flatten sand everything out. But off to a better start compared to the first time. (Frame with the tape is my second attempt,obviously)

Looks like you're on your way to a good result! I'm sure you'd agree that taking your time is a big factor.

Thanks for joining the forum and participating by posting! When you get a chance, please write up a quick “introduction” (or RE-introduction if you were a former MGB forum member) of yourself over in the Introduce Yourself! section. Tell us about yourself, your building experience, and how you found the forum.

Jump into other threads, too! Come on in... the water's fine!

 

[Stephen G]

This is the shit right here. Got Harbor Freight model w/ variable speed foot pedal AWESOME!!!! 1/4 HP 5/32 in. Grinder/Carver Rotary Tool with Flexible Shaft and Foot Pedal

This also works well, but takes up alot of room. Not as agile and MANDATORY it be bolted down. But works very well. I can run both till my hands get tired, never gets hot.

Grizzly T32002 - 1/4 HP Variable-Speed Mini Benchtop Grinder/Buffer with Rotary Shaft

T32002 3" Mini Benchtop Grinder / Buffer with Rotary Shaft A lightweight, space saving machine for intricate work. Sometimes smaller is better, and that's definitely the case with the T32002 3" Variable-Speed Mini Benchtop Grinder / Buffer with Rotary Shaft. The grinding and buffing wheels allow...

pittsburghsprayequip.com

 

[Goodheadache]

Looks like you're on your way to a good result! I'm sure you'd agree that taking your time is a big factor.

Thanks for joining the forum and participating by posting! When you get a chance, please write up a quick “introduction” (or RE-introduction if you were a former MGB forum member) of yourself over in the Introduce Yourself! section. Tell us about yourself, your building experience, and how you found the forum.

Jump into other threads, too! Come on in... the water's fine!

Little update. Was just able to get my rear rails in. Using rook tactical rails is a huge benefit compared to normal ones. You done have to clean out as much. Once you get the middle section out with the coping saw blade all you have to do is use a 1/4 chisel and go straight down the sides. Obviously need to clean up a bunch and make it look FTQ but this method was way easier compared to using a dremel. I will use the dremel on the top to clean everything up and polish but I don’t think I will be going down into the “throat”.

 

[Michele]

There’s definitely an advantage to using rook rails in this frame. Look great, super job on that. I heated my rear rail a bit and heat pressed it down in.

 

[BeerHunter]

First time posting and recently new member… I second this^^^^ after cutting thru the mag well wall on my first attempt I used a coping saw to cut out the middle sections of the polymer. It was hard to get the saw blade down thru. Had to actually remove the tab the holds the saw blade In place then re attach it. Definitely recommend putting tape or something down, it helps to let you know when you are tearing up the walls. I still have to go in with the dremel and flatten sand everything out. But off to a better start compared to the first time. (Frame with the tape is my second attempt,obviously)

Welcome to the forum, Goodheadache!

 

[meistermash]

I have one "bridge" frame to do sometime.
Shits is, I don't have that jig for that size frame. G17.
Got used 19 sized ones. (May have that bassackwards)
I'll figure something out.
I think I may hack that rear deal out while I am deciding.
Gonna see if a jewlers saw will pass and maybe use that.
And I have wood chisles.