Click no bang.

Racer88 said:
Have you done the slide "shake test." Is the firing pin moving freely?

With slide off gun, use your finger to push in and hold the firing pin safety plunger.
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And shake the slide back and forth. You should be able to hear the firing pin rattling around inside loosely.
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With that test, where you put the pencil in the barrel, how far should the pencil jump up? I feel like it’s not hitting hard enough like maybe it’s a light primer strike because even when I dry fire it it doesn’t really sound like it has enough click to it it feels very light
 
dreday said:
With that test, where you put the pencil in the barrel, how far should the pencil jump up? I feel like it’s not hitting hard enough like maybe it’s a light primer strike because even when I dry fire it it doesn’t really sound like it has enough click to it it feels very light
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Just did the shake test I can’t hear anything
 
So next step if I can’t hear the pin ?
 
Here’s a picture of the slide just so you can tell me if everything looks like it should, but like I said, the same slide worked on the other frame with the same parts in the lower of the other frame
 

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dreday said:
OK, well even if it’s not OEM, it still worked in the other frame with the same slide and I’m just trying to figure out why it’s not working with this one
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Due to differences in tolerances that can happen. Work in one but not another while the Glock built part will work in all of them. I have boxes of aftermarket housings and have measured them and was blown away at the inconsistencies while the Glock parts were almost always the exact same or extremely close. Those tolerances do matter.

Racer brought up a good point. Does your firing pin safety allow the firing pin to pass? Take your barrel out, press the firing pin safety, and move the firing pin all the way forward. Can you see the firing pin? If it is not moving freely, your firing pin spring is probably not installed properly.
 
I just did that. That’s what it looks like.
 

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dreday said:
Just did the shake test I can’t hear anything
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So, something is holding up the firing pin. That might explain the light strikes.

First thought... did you install a firing pin channel liner in the slide?
 
Keep in mind that I used the same slide with the same parts and everything on a different lower with the same parts of the lower also and it worked fine so I don’t think it would be a spring installation issue
 
Racer88 said:
So, something is holding up the firing pin. That might explain the light strikes.

First thought... did you install a firing pin channel liner in the slide?
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I’ll take it apart and double check and make sure that I have one in there but why would it work on the other lower?
 
Racer88 said:
So, something is holding up the firing pin. That might explain the light strikes.

First thought... did you install a firing pin channel liner in the slide?
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Yes
 
dreday said:
I’ll take it apart and double check and make sure that I have one in there but why would it work on the other lower?
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I don't know, honestly. That part doesn't make sense.

We also haven't seen a photo of your sear engagement, yet.
 
I don’t have an armorer’s plate.
 
dreday said:
I don’t have an armorer’s plate.
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Get one or make one (with a spare standard OEM plate). Checking your sear engagement is really a critical part of safety testing a build before going to live ammo. I don't see it as optional when you're building guns or even modding factory gun triggers or firing pins. This is life and death stuff. Bad things can happen with an unsafe gun.

Plus it can help diagnose problems.
 
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how high is the rear of the slide sitting? light strikes was onea the issues I had with the Geisler frames originally before I identified that the rear rails were not bent to an actual 90* and this will explain everything working in one but not another... As Racer said an armorers plate is essential Glock builder equipment as the reason the slide sitting high is an issue is...... Say it with me guys "STRIKER ENGAGMENT"

IF you have not read through all of the geisler build posts go to the one "Whats up with the huge gap" I posted several pics in there as did others in the end the fix was pretty simple but does require a vice and some care to correct the angle of the rear rails
 
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arizona2a said:
how high is the rear of the slide sitting? light strikes was onea the issues I had with the Geisler frames originally before I identified that the rear rails were not bent to an actual 90* and this will explain everything working in one but not another... As Racer said an armorers plate is essential Glock builder equipment as the reason the slide sitting high is an issue is...... Say it with me guys "STRIKER ENGAGMENT"

IF you have not read through all of the geisler build posts go to the one "Whats up with the huge gap" I posted several pics in there as did others in the end the fix was pretty simple but does require a vice and some care to correct the angle of the rear rails
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I totally get that, but they’re both Geisler lowers. Does that matter that’s why I’m so lost as to why it worked in one lower but not the other. They’re both the same company lowers just different colors.
 
dreday said:
I totally get that, but they’re both Geisler lowers. Does that matter that’s why I’m so lost as to why it worked in one lower but not the other. They’re both the same company lowers just different colors.
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Probably inconsistency in the frames. The Gen 1’s were not the best and required some tuning to make everything work correctly.
 
dreday said:
I totally get that, but they’re both Geisler lowers. Does that matter that’s why I’m so lost as to why it worked in one lower but not the other. They’re both the same company lowers just different colors.
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I bought 3 geislers myself only 1 had the rails not fully bent a friend bought 4 after I told him they were GTG.. 2 of the 4 I had to correct the rails on... these are all gen 2 I've not seen anyone selling the gen 1s anyplace I think the majority of those are now already in use or pulled all the sellers I've seen only have gen 2 versions

so yea ya could have 1 frame with the rails being higher than the other frame..... that will cause the striker to be released before being fully cocked I experienced that with one of my friends with my first ne the slide catch would not engage and the slide would ride over cartridges in the mag without catching the rear of the case head

because the quality control seems to be pretty spotty with geisler there tends to be some frame to frame (actually the polymer frame seems to be GTG its the rails that are inconsistent from kit to kit) inconstancy that the end builder will have to address.... was the same with early P80s as well as the lone wolf freedom wolf etc etc... thats the thing about building 80% guns... go check out the AR10 threads we had a very popular dealer that had every single receiver being made with the safety detent hole 1/8" off from spec.... took myself and another member writing andf sending pics erc.. for them to finally contact the manufacturer and get it corrected I still have 2 of those blank AR10 lowers I needa fix and machine someday..... when I was doing 1911 80 % frames there was one brand we'd get through SARCO that the grip forging was consistently "bent" so part of the build was to use a press to straighten the grip before ya ever started any milling its the nature of doing these builds
 
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