Click no bang.

dreday

dreday

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So I just built another one of these and I took it out to the range and everything seems fine but when I pull the trigger, I didn’t know fire or you can hear the trigger clicking and if I dry fire it it sounds fine but when I put around in it, talk to gun and shoot it it’s just a click no bullet no bang
 
Could be so many things. Not sure what "click" you're hearing. Not really enough info. Normally all function testing is done before you go to the range for live fire.

At home... unloaded gun... Rack / cock the gun.... Stick a pencil, eraser-first / down, into the barrel. Barrel pointed up. Pull the trigger. Does the pencil jump up?

Alternatively, put a piece of masking tape over the "primer" of a snap-cap. Fire. Does the tape show an impact by the firing pin?

Got an armorer's slide backplate? Let's see the sear engagement.
 
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The clock of the trigger when pulled and yes the pencil does jump
 
Click not clock.
 
Is there any indication that the firing pin hit the primer? Maybe, but just not hard enough to set it off would most likely indicate the sear engagement is not enough and the sear is coming off of the cruciform too early.
 
Curmudgeon said:
Is there any indication that the firing pin hit the primer? Maybe, but just not hard enough to set it off would most likely indicate the sear engagement is not enough and the sear is coming off of the cruciform too early.
Click to expand...
Well I put a pencil in there and it jumped but not out of the barrel about an inch or two how would I fix the sear engagement issue and how would I know if that’s the problem? I had the same slide and lpk in a different frame it worked fine.
 
dreday said:
how would I fix the sear engagement issue and how would I know if that’s the problem?
Click to expand...

You'll need to buy or make an "armorer's slide rear plate." You can make one by cutting the lower half of a factory rear slide plate.

ghostinc.com

GHOST ARMORERS PLATE FOR GLOCK GEN 1-5

GHOST INC. GHOST ARMORERS PLATE for Glocks GEN's 1-5 by Ghost Inc. Aftermarket Glock parts and Glock accessories by Ghost Inc triggers, connectors, baseplates, and slide releases
ghostinc.com ghostinc.com

ndzperformance.com

Ghost Armorer's Half Rear Slide Cover Plate for Glock GEN 1-5 Clear

Get fast visual access to internal components with the Ghost Armorer's Half Rear Slide Cover Plate for Glock Gen 1–5. Clear polycarbonate design ideal for diagnostics and maintenance.
ndzperformance.com ndzperformance.com

Sear engagement .png
sear-engagement.jpg
The-Tank-Sear-Engagement.jpg


Factory specs minimum is 2/3rds coverage. We like 3/4 or better.
 
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What trigger are you using? Are you using a lighter than 5.5lb firing pin spring?
 
dreday said:
Well I put a pencil in there and it jumped but not out of the barrel about an inch or two how would I fix the sear engagement issue and how would I know if that’s the problem? I had the same slide and lpk in a different frame it worked fine.
Click to expand...
If you have a set of calipers, measure from the trigger pin hole to the trigger housing pin hole on the frame that doesn't fire and compare it to the frame that did work. If the non working frame is shorter, the cruciform will come off the sear early causing light primer strikes.

If you have less than two thirds engagement as shown in a previous post, you need to bend the trailing section up a hair until you have enough engagement. This won't fix a short frame problem though it might work for a little while you will run into a dead trigger (you get to the end of the trigger pull and it doesn't release the sear.)

As far as how to fix the engagement by bending the cruciform, I am not a Glock armorer with all the specialized tools so I use a small vice, a large punch, and a small hammer. Make a small, barely measurable adjustment, reassemble and test. Might take me a few tries, so a few assemble and disassemble cycles are expected.

If someone else has a better method, please chime in as I am always willing to learn something new myself .
 
There are some firing pins that give better engagement and some trigger housings that ride a bit higher that will also give better engagement. If you bend the sear, stabilize the bar so it doesn’t bend elsewhere. The GPT will also give better engagement and allows you to adjust the trigger more while still being drop safe.
 
Although I have a Ghost plate, I like the Glock armorer's plate better as it has the recess for the SA and metal tabs for retention. I've not had ANY issues test firing with it in place...

glockplate.JPG
 
Bobster said:
Although I have a Ghost plate, I like the Glock armorer's plate better as it has the recess for the SA and metal tabs for retention. I've not had ANY issues test firing with it in place...
Click to expand...

I've forgotten to change back to a regular plate and have fired my gun(s) with the Ghost plate with no issues. Whoops! :)
 
dreday said:
I didn’t know fire or you can hear the trigger clicking and if I dry fire it it sounds fine but when I put around in it, talk to gun and shoot it it’s just a click no bullet no bang
Click to expand...

I gotta be honest... May I mambo dogface to the banana patch? ;)

I really have no idea what is going on here. I don't know what any of this (quoted above) means. Though, I never considered talking to my guns to fix problems! 🤪 Sorry... couldn't resist any longer!

Was any function testing done before going to the range? Safety testing?

Let's see some photos of the build, including sear engagement pics.
Diagnostic photos for P80 builds - examples:

We can help, but we need more information.
 
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Sorry for the weird paragraph I was talk texting that’s why I wrote it like that. What I meant to say is when I put the pencil in it it jumps a little bit and when I dry fire it, I can hear the trigger clicking and I had the same exact parts in a different Frame with the same slide and it worked fine
 

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Curmudgeon said:
If you have a set of calipers, measure from the trigger pin hole to the trigger housing pin hole on the frame that doesn't fire and compare it to the frame that did work. If the non working frame is shorter, the cruciform will come off the sear early causing light primer strikes.

If you have less than two thirds engagement as shown in a previous post, you need to bend the trailing section up a hair until you have enough engagement. This won't fix a short frame problem though it might work for a little while you will run into a dead trigger (you get to the end of the trigger pull and it doesn't release the sear.)

As far as how to fix the engagement by bending the cruciform, I am not a Glock armorer with all the specialized tools so I use a small vice, a large punch, and a small hammer. Make a small, barely measurable adjustment, reassemble and test. Might take me a few tries, so a few assemble and disassemble cycles are expected.

If someone else has a better method, please chime in as I am always willing to learn something new myself .
Click to expand...
Bending the cruciform. ? Which way ? Sorry I’m a bit confused. Can you maybe send me a picture and tell me what you want me to bend?
 
FrankenGlock said:
What trigger are you using? Are you using a lighter than 5.5lb firing pin spring?
Click to expand...
Oem trigger. I had all the same parts in a different frame and it worked fine. I’m thinking about transferring them back over to the other frame just to see if it works.
 
If you are not running a Glock trigger housing. You need to start there. Some aftermarket trigger housings do not work properly and are wildly out of spec in size and connector angle. Get a Glock housing and Glock trigger bar. Get a Gen 5 bar and housing or GPT. Both will work better than the Gen 3 system.

Remove the firing pin safety and see if it has nicks in the side. That would be an indication that your firing pin safety is interfering with your firing pin.
 
dreday said:
Oem trigger. I had all the same parts in a different frame and it worked fine. I’m thinking about transferring them back over to the other frame just to see if it works.
Click to expand...
How do you know it is OEM? There are lots of fakes out there.
 
Have you done the slide "shake test." Is the firing pin moving freely?

With slide off gun, use your finger to push in and hold the firing pin safety plunger.
Firing-Pin-Safety.jpg

And shake the slide back and forth. You should be able to hear the firing pin rattling around inside loosely.
 
FrankenGlock said:
How do you know it is OEM? There are lots of fakes out there.
Click to expand...
OK, well even if it’s not OEM, it still worked in the other frame with the same slide and I’m just trying to figure out why it’s not working with this one
 

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